There are many roads to Santiago, and there are many reasons for walking there. Equally, there are many circumstances for how we all, as individuals, choose to walk the Camino. Today we arrived in Santiago, around 1:45 pm. We ran into people we knew in the plaza in front of the Cathedral, and snapped photos happily away, in a dry ... Read More »
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ASKING QUESTIONS. WHILE WEARING A RAIN PONCHO.
Confession: I did not have the opportunity today to try my new niceness with our friends from Minnesota. I did, however, learn to ask more questions, as those same friends do often. Today’s lessons: 1. The horizontally trellised grape is called catalán rojo, and it makes a white wine, unless it is left to ferment, in which case it makes a rosé. ... Read More »
ARE YOU MY MOTHER?
Sharon thinks I’m mean is too nice. Today we set off for Caldás de Reis, 23 kilometers from Pontevedra. Caldás de Reis is known for its thermal spas, the waters consistently at 40 degrees Celsius, or a steamy 104 Farenheit. It was also the birthplace of King Alfonso VII in 1105, the son of Queen Urraca. Just the sound of ... Read More »
NOT-SO-GOOD LEGS
Our requisite “buenos días” as we pass locals on our Camino landed us in quite a conversation this morning. We were in Arcade, seven kilometers into our 18 kilometer day. She was headed uphill, maybe 80 years old, with a cane for support. She was well below five feet tall, spritely for one with a cane, with lively eyes. She stopped ... Read More »
HOW TO START A PILGRIMAGE, PART 2
We knew it would be a long day until we reached Redondela. We knew there would be a bit of a climb in the last few hours, just when the dogs were barking. We were prepared to enjoy the journey, and not be too focused on the destination. Recap for the day: roses galore, foxgloves, waterfalls, café con leche (not ... Read More »
BILLY GOAT GRUFF…
…would love Tui, our starting point on the Camino Portugués. Locals here go up and down mountains hills with amazing speed, and seemingly without breaking a sweat. It is hard to complain about 200 stairs going up when an 80 year old woman is carrying three bags of groceries up them ahead of you. Tui, where the cathedral was first ... Read More »
CHURCHILL’S… MUCH MORE THAN A STODGY PORT WINE
Pre-Camino mandatory stop: Porto, Portugal, where you are greeted at the reception desk in your hotel with a glass of Port wine. Not a bad way to start a vacation pilgrimage! After some 16 hours en route, Porto greeted us with sun, smiles and lovely tannins. A quick nap at the elegant Hotel Park Atlantic, a shower, and we were ready ... Read More »
OOOO. THAT SOUNDS KIND OF RELIGIOUS…
“I’m going on pilgrimage in May.” The response I get to that statement tends to be a wavering look of indecision, a momentary pause, and something aimed at not really offending. Except, of course, when I tell my Spanish-junkie friends. Then the response is more like “That is on MY bucket list!” or “I wish I was going too!” or ... Read More »
IN DEFENSE OF KITCHEN GADGETS
I offer up Exhibit #1, the Avocado Tool. I saw it advertised in a cooking magazine, and, well… I like avocados. I am fortunate to be the only one in the house who likes avocados, so I don’t have to share. And they CAN be messy. And how to remove that slippery pit? A genius true avocado aficionado must ... Read More »
A FEW OF MY FAVORITE THINGS (FRENCH EDITION)
Sleeping in. The hot shower/cold beer combo. Reading the Sunday Times with a cup of strong coffee. Long brunches that include Bloody Marys and Eggs Benedict. Tulips. Falling asleep in a hammock. Playing Banagrams with my friends (and winning, obviously). People watching. This is the short (and PG-rated) list of a few of my favorite things. The list changes seasonally. ... Read More »